The Chamonix World Cup semi-finals are just over on Place du Mont Blanc. The top 26 men and women battled it out in lanes that left no room for error! The classification is very close and the final was played in the last movements of the route. But most of the favorites responded and our French drew on their entrenchments. One of them even managed to qualify for the finals, which will take place tonight!
Full summary of the Chamonix 2022 World Cup semi-finals.
Four tops for men
They are four climbers to have overcome the semi-final route this morning. Japanese Satone Yushida was the first athlete to clear the way. Already a finalist in Innsbruck and Villars, he will take part in his third consecutive final tonight in Chamonix.
Behind him, the Slovenian Luka Potocar and the American Sean Bailey have also chained the way. At the moment of presenting himself at the foot of the wall, Adam Ondra knew that the top had been reached several times. Concentrated, he rushes into the route and tries to ensure each of his movements. At the top, we feel less confident than the other climbers, but the Czech avoids taking risks. Calmly, he reached the last socket and clipped the relay in turn, heaving a sigh of relief.
The route was super random! It’s always very difficult to climb when you know you have to climb very high or reach the top to qualify. I knew I had no room for error, especially since it was very easy to get trapped on these holds with their smooth parts. But I feel pretty good for tonight! »
Disappointment on the other hand Alex Megas. The German will succeed in chaining the route, but will then be demoted in the classification by the judges. Indeed, when passing the rope in one of the first quickdraws, Alex zipped his foot and his finger would then have retained the carabiner according to the officials.
A first World Cup final for Sam Havesou!
Sam Dove thrilled the Chamonix public this morning! Our 21-year-old Frenchman was one of the first climbers to set off on the route. While the other competitors before him had been feverish coming out of the overhang, Sam was still surprisingly fresh at this point of the route. He manages the arch section with flawless precision and reaches the last holds, passing all the other climbers. Caught up by fatigue, he tries a dynamic movement to catch the final hold and grazes it with his fingertips, without managing to stop there. But this performance will be more than enough to qualify for the final.
It is therefore in front of the Chamonix public that Sam Havesou will play the very first World Cup final of his career this evening.
Upon reading, we thought that the start of the route was going to be super hard, with really flat grips. We had some doubts about the arches at the end and the whole thing seemed super long. But in the end it was okay, the grips were pretty good and the route didn’t seem that long to me.
Once launched, I felt good and pleasantly surprised. The beginning went well and there was a rest in the middle which allowed me to recover really well. After that we arrived in the curves which were good, followed by a section which required a little flexibility when exiting the slope and which I really liked. At the end I was tired and I wasn’t thinking anymore, so I tried to energize while the other guys who arrived there were still fresher. They were therefore able to take the time to pass the movement well to top the route.
The objective was to go to the final, so it is already more or less achieved. Now anything can happen. »
Our four other French fail to qualify for the rest of the competition. However, Paul Jenft and Arsene Duval put up a good fight, and fell just two moves from the final, finishing in 14th and 15th place. This shows the density of climbers who fell in this last part of the wall!
Romaric Geffroy and Jeanette Bondierwho were among the first semi-finalists to set off on the route this morning, finished in 21st and 23rd place respectively.
The full results of the men’s semi-final
Four women at the top of the track
As with the men, four climbers reached the top of the semi-final. And the last movements of the route sent shivers down the spine of the public who came in large numbers to Place du Mont Blanc. To finish the route, the setters had chosen to offer a precarious recovery, which required flexibility and balance.
Qualities that perfectly characterize the young Laura Rogorafirst female competitor to clear the way. While her elbows were already rising in the overhang, the Italian fights and remains lucid until reaching the top. The Japanese Natsuki Taniifinalists in the first two rounds of the season, in turn continues the route.
After swallowing the first movements with great ease, Brooke Raboutou fights for long seconds in the last block step. So much so that she is stopped by time, just before catching the final baccalaureate. His compatriot Natalia Grosman don’t get trapped. She reached the track relay with thirty seconds left on the clock.
Like Adam Ondra, Janja Garnbret knew that the way had been chained several times. The Slovenian therefore had no room for error. But she will be even faster than Natalia to reach the top, qualifying in turn for the finals.
Manon Hily and Hélène Janicot, first not qualified
Our two French women came close to the finals! At ease at the beginning of the route, Helene Janicot makes all his experience and his technique speak, managing to achieve a jamming of the knee in lolotte at the exit of the slope. But she suddenly falls a few seconds later, when he seemed to stay in her arms. She finished 10th, just two moves from the final.
To pay Manon Hilythe result is even tighter. She drops a hold after Hélène and finds herself in 8th place, tied with the Slovenian Mia Krampl. The two women will be separated following the results of the qualifications, to the advantage of the Slovenian. Manon therefore ranks 9th, at the gates of the finals.
I was a little stressed, like for all the competitions that take place in France. But just before me, Camille and Paul were passing, so I heard that there was a great atmosphere and it really made me want to climb.
We knew that the beginning was going to be quite easy and that everything was going to be decided in the end. But we were surprised by a big move to get a hold quite far to the left and I had to completely reorganize myself. Fortunately, it worked rather well since I managed to pass the move. But I wasn’t efficient enough so I arrived quite tired at the movement where I fell. But I fought well, so no regrets!
This year I had a great season where I was always in the semi-finals or in the top 10, so I’m really happy. I have qualified for the whole international season so I still have plenty of World Cups to come. The objective is to make finals and get closer to the podium. »
Camille Pougetthird French engaged in this semi-final falls on a passage which will bring down half of the semi-finalists. She finished 17th in this competition.
The full results of the women’s semi-final
The rest of the program
Sunday July 10:
8:30 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.: Women’s difficulty final
9:30 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.: Men’s difficulty final
Chamonix World Cup: qualifying results