Chamonix World Cup: the complete summary of the finals PlanetGrimpe

Chamonix World Cup: the complete summary of the finals PlanetGrimpe


Janja Garnbret will have managed the feat of linking all the routes of the weekend in Chamonix © Planetgrimpe

Seventeen climbers competed last night in the final of the Chamonix World Cup, under the famous Mont Blanc, and in front of more than 20,000 spectators. On the women’s side, Slovenian Janja Garnbret, Olympic champion, won her third consecutive gold medal of the season. On the men’s side, Adam Ondra made a resounding comeback by winning, while Frenchman Sam Dovezou played in his first final.

Complete summary of these finals.

A very tight women’s final!

A few minutes before the start of the finals, Vincent De Girolamo, opener for this World Cup in Chamonix, indulged in a few predictions, declaring that all the climbers were going to climb high in this final route. And he was not wrong. Indeed, all the finalists will arrive in the last part of this path.

Mia Kramplfirst competitor of the evening to set off, reached the exit of the overhang, zipping with her left hand on a receding arch, while her elbows rose. All the finalists after them were going to exceed this mark, that is to say if the classification was played at the top of the wall!

From the next climber, the tone would go up. Jessica Pilzset back since the start of the season, would ignite the thousands of spectators present on the Place du Mont Blanc, by achieving the first top of the evening. After some hesitation at the start of the route, the Austrian recovers and gets back into the rhythm. She will reach the summit with only 18 seconds left on the clock.

Jessica Pilz’s top was the start of a long streak. Only a few minutes after her passage, the Korean Chaeyhun Seo in turn clipped the track relay, without much difficulty. Laura Rogora will do the same, after hesitating for a long time in the last movements before committing to the final hold. She only had 7 seconds left on the clock when she clipped the route.

Laura Rogora has once again proven that she is one of the best climbers in the world © Planetgrimpe

The young Japanese Natsuki Tanii seemed well on its way to overcoming the route in turn. Unfortunately, she gets swept up in the air in the last move, falling and failing to hold the final hold.

The two Americans Natalia Grosman and Brooke Raboutoueagerly awaited in this competition, both make mistakes at the end of the course. Having understood that the route had been taken out, they climb quickly from the start. Thus, they arrive with more than 30 seconds in advance in the last part, but fall, two movements from the top, tired of having gone so fast.

I think it’s one of the easiest final routes we’ve had. So I had to climb fast, because I knew it was going to come down to time. In the end, it tired me and I made a mistake at the top, says Natalia Grossman.

But it’s the first time I’ve climbed in front of so many people, the place was full, it was so stimulating, she adds.

All eyes were on Janja Garnbret. She, too, knew that the way had been chained several times before her. But the Slovenian, who won her 50th World Cup medal a few days ago, shows no sign of weakness and climbs with her usual ease and fluidity. She allows herself to dilute on the hold that caused the two Americans before her to fall, then reached the top in her turn, with another 47 seconds on the clock.

It’s true that I felt fluid in my climb. Usually I’m more nervous when I know that many girls before me have already reached the top, but this time I was super calm and relaxed. I just climbed with a bit of caution, because I knew I had to chain the route, but it was easy! Garnbret said.

For now, I can’t wait to get home to find my routine a bit, then I can’t wait to go to Briançon, she added.

Janja Garnbret proudly waves her fist at the top of the route, facing the thousands of spectators present in Chamonix © Planetgrimpe

In total, they are therefore four to reach the top of the route. They will be decided according to the results of the semi-finals. Chaehyun Seo, having chained the route yesterday morning, unlike the Austrian, won the bronze medal, climbing for the ninth time on a world podium since her arrival on the international scene in 2019.

To decide between Laura Rogora and Janja Garnbret, and to know which of the two wins this World Cup, we have to go back even further in the competition. Indeed, in addition to being tied in the final, the Italian and the Slovenian were already tied in the semi-finals having both completed the course. But following the qualifying results, it was Janja Garnbret who won, winning her 35th world victory. For the little anecdote, it will not have fallen once during the weekend! She is the only competitor to have chained all the routes of the competition, from the qualifications to the finals.

The complete results of the women’s final

The return of King Ondra!

The men’s competition got off to a strong start. Winner of the Villars World Cup last weekend, the Japanese I guess it’s a job had an impressive performance in the final lane, touching the last hold with his fingertips. The vertical limit was given: to win this competition, you would have to reach the last hold.

However, it wasn’t the route that was too easy, it was the Japanese performance that was magnificent. Because after him, the falls will follow one another in the middle of the slope. The British Hamish McArthur falls in the most physical passage, while we lose the Swiss Sasha Lehmancaught in a 360° that he will not be able to control, in one of the key movements of this final route.

First finalist to start, Taisei Homma set the tone by reaching the last hold of the route © Planetgrimpe

German Yannick Flohetrue revelation of this 2022 season after its many finals in bouldering and in difficulty, seemed well on its way to winning a new medal. Taking advantage of his physical qualities, he has the luxury of shunting holds at the start of the route, preferring to energize as much as possible. He makes short work of the passage in compression, but falls at the exit of the overhang, unable to hold a flat left hand.

A place where the Slovenian will also be trapped Luka Potocar and the American Sean Bailey. Both seemed a bit short to successfully perform the left-handed raise.

The last step of the podium will be decided between these three climbers. As with the women, it will be necessary to turn to the results of the semi-final to designate the bronze medalist of the evening. In this game, Sean Bailey won the fifth medal of his career. After being on the podium three times in 2021, this is the first time that the American has been on the podium this season, gradually increasing in power over the competitions.

As the season progresses, Sean Bailey seems to be gaining momentum © Planetgrimpe

A final at home, in front of more than 20,000 spectators. What more could you dream of Sam Dovewho was playing the first final of his career. After his magnificent performance in the semi-finals, Sam was the only tricolor to qualify for the finals. And from the outset, our 21-year-old Frenchman puts rhythm into his movements, and will be one of the fastest in this way. Unfortunately, he gets caught in the most physical section, out of breath.

Being in Chamonix for my first final was great. There are no other words. Climbing, I did not think too much, but I admit that when I arrived at the foot of the wall, you really realize that there are people. On reading, the route seemed to me much harder than the semi-final and the qualifications, especially the first part. It looked a bit weird, there were a lot of feet, I wasn’t really sure about the methods. But in the end, climbing in, it was quite logical.

Not having a lot of resistance, I had to move quickly on the route, otherwise I would have exploded. Hence my fast pace,” Sam explains.

Sam Havesou will have proudly defended the colors of France during his first World Cup final © Planetgrimpe

Adam Ondrawho was taking part in his first world competition since the Tokyo Olympics, was keen to shine on this Place du Mont Blanc that he knows so well.

If Sam Havesou had gone fast at the start of the route, Adam Ondra will go even faster: it will only take a minute to reach half of the route! His movements are so precise that he seems to know the route by heart. It is as if he had already climbed it many times. Difficult to know on sight in this way, so sure and fast are his gestures. Very quickly, he reaches the physical passage having been fatal to Sam, but does not flinch. It gets out of the overhang easily and continues its ascent until the last holds. Arrived in the last movement, he takes the time to analyze the distance that separates him from the final hold, then throws himself with both hands. Unfortunately, he got carried away in his tracks and failed to hold this crater.

He therefore obtains the same score as Taisei Homma. However, unlike the Czech, the Japanese had not made the semi-final route earlier in the day. The victory therefore goes to Adam Ondra, who signs a magnificent return to the international scene. He wins his 22nd World Cup gold medal and climbs to his 37th world podium.

Back after the Olympics, Adam Ondra returns to victory © Planetgrimpe

I clearly needed a break after the Olympics, but now I feel it’s time to come back to the fore. I’ve been hungry for competition lately. And I think I chose the best World Cup on the circuit to come back to, namely the Chamonix stage. It was a great decision, I enjoyed being here so much. I like to climb when it’s dark, that’s when you feel the whole crowd behind you, it’s unbelievable said Ondra after his victory.

I think the more complex the route, the better for me. I particularly liked the clip section at the top of the overhang. Then, I was a little disappointed that it was just a pure bowing festival, but I was quite happy to be able to recover a little before the last movements. On reading, I was pretty sure I could reach the last take without throwing, but it turned out to be impossible, he added of the final route.

The complete results of the men’s final

Next meeting in Briançon, from July 22 to 23.

Read also

Chamonix World Cup: discover the names of the finalists!

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